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138 over-and-over stitch, using No. 150 cotton; the joining can scarcely be detected. If this is not practical for the net you are using, make a plain seam and trim the edges down to within one-eighth of an inch of the stitching. Roll the seam edges down to the stitching and whip them closely.

Non-transparent materials may be joined in a plain seam for a double ruche. For a single ruche they should be joined with a tiny French seam. (Chapter 17, page 86.) This can be trimmed away under a frayed edge so that the frayed edge appears continuous. This work must be done very carefully.

In cutting, plan the strips so that as few joinings as possible are required. (The directions for cutting bias strips are given in Chapter 2, page 15.)

FOR GATHERINGS, make a row of small running stitches. The stitches may be the same length as the spaces, or the spaces may be twice the length of the stitches. Always begin by inserting the needle from the wrong side to conceal the knot. It is better to slip the stitches along on the needle and not remove it from the material.

When the gathering is completed, remove the needle and draw the gatherings up tight. Place a pin vertically, close to the last stitch, and wind the thread several times around the pin in the form of an 8 (Ill. 321.) This holds the gathers firmly together.

IN STROKING OR LAYING GATHERS the work is held between the thumb and fingers of the left hand, with the thumb below the gathering thread. Put the side of the needle well above the gathering thread and press the little plait under the thumb, drawing the needle down. (Ill. 322.)

Do not use the point of the needle, as it scratches and weakens the material. Continue entirely across the gathers, putting the needle under each stitch and holding the plait firmly with the thumb. Stroke the material above the gathering thread as well as below it to make the gathers firm and even.

TWO ROWS OF GATHERS are often used in dressmaking and do not need stroking. A skirt joined to a band, a sleeve set in a cuff or sewed into the armhole,