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136 hem covering the line of the basting. Stitch the insertion close to the edges from the right side, and at the same time catching through the material of the hem.

TO MITER LACE—The lace should be cut between the cords, not across them. Overhand the edges together, putting the needle back the depth of two cords. Illustration 316 shows the figures cut around the edge, lapped and hemmed around the figure on each side. For a stronger corner, the lace may be mitered in a very tiny, flat hem. (Ill. 317.)

JOINING ROWS OF LACE TO FIT A CURVE—A shaped piece made of rows of insertion joined together is made over a piece of stiff paper. Cut a piece of stiff paper the correct size and shape of the collar, yoke, etc., that you are making, and baste the rows of insertion to the paper so that the edges of the rows just meet. (Ill. 318.) Begin with the longest row of insertion and baste the longest edge of that row to the paper with the right side down. Draw the pull-thread at the shorter edge of the same row to draw it into a curve. If you are careful in distributing the fulness evenly, most of it can be pressed out unless the curve is very great. Whip the edges of the rows together and press them before removing them from the paper. (Ill. 318.)

TO INSERT LACE MEDALLIONS, baste them to the material and stitch them by machine as close to the edge as possible.

Cut out the material from under the lace, leaving a narrow seam's width at each side. (Ill. 319.)

This edge may be turned back and stitched flat by a second row of stitching, leaving a raw edge. Or, it may be overcast closely with the raw edge rolled in to prevent any possible raveling. Illustration 319 shows a medallion set in in this way. Sometimes, where two finished edges come together, they are lapped and stitched together as shown in Illustration 320.