Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/138

134 If preferred, a small seam may be left on the insertion as well as on the garment and put together by a tiny French seam. This is the finish most commonly employed.

Embroidery also may be inserted by a machine fell seam. (Ill. 308.) Baste the insertion to the material with a narrow seam on the wrong side. Trim off all ravelings and insert the raw edges in the hemmer of the machine, and stitch as in hemming.

EMBROIDERY TRIMMING MAY BE MITERED so that the joining will scarcely be seen. Fold it over so that the crease comes exactly in the middle of the corner, taking care to match the pattern perfectly. Crease firmly, and cut on the creased line. (Ill. 309.) Place the right sides face to face and buttonhole the raw edges together with short, close stitches. Illustration 310 shows the finished corner. The method of making the buttonhole-stitch is shown in Illustration 227 on page 112.

WHIPPING ON TRIMMING is generally done on an edge. If lace, it should be either gathered by pulling the heavy thread which is usually found at the top, or whipped and drawn as in a ruffle. Roll an inch or two of the garment material, place the lace with its right side to the right side of the material, and whip both together. (Ill. 311.) Lace may be whipped on plain if preferred, but it must be eased in. Insertion may be inset in the same way.

METHODS OF INSERTING LACE and insertion, when the material has a straight edge, are shown in Illustrations 312 and 313. Fold the material for a hem, creasing the lower fold hard. Open the hem and baste the lace edge just below the lower fold, and stitch. (Ill. 312.) Turn back the hem and