Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/126

122 embroidery thread for a dress. Draw it down in front of you. This will form a little loop. Take a little stitch in the material and through the loop; pull the thread tight to form a knot. (Ill. 257.) Take up the next four or five threads. (The thread between the stitches should be loose, but the knots should be tight.) Work all along one side, overcast the end of the work, and turn, working down the opposite side, taking up the same stitches. (Ill. 258.) This is plain drawn-work.

For the twisted threads used so effectively on Illustrations 262 and 263, hemstitch both edges as directed above, then weave the threads as follows:

Join the thread in one end of the work. *Run the needle under the first three threads, turn; run the needle over the third and under the second and first thread, turn; run the needle under the second and fourth threads (Ill. 259), turn; run the needle under the second. (Ill. 260.) Now pull the thread and repeat from *.

For the fagot drawn-work used as a border in the wide drawn-work and on a dress, draw the threads as usual and hemstitch one edge, taking up ten threads; take a little overcasting stitch between each knot and bring the thread out in the center of each thread. When the row is finished, turn and work back, taking half of the first group in the first stitch and the remaining half of the first group and half of the second in the next stitch (Ill. 261.)

THE FAGOT-STITCH is a style of hand-made trimming that is always popular and attractive. (Ill. 264.) The simple beading stitch or any of the more elaborate stitches shown in the illustrations, which are very effective for trimming dainty lingerie, may also be used as a beading through which to run narrow ribbon.

For fagoting, the design of the work should first be traced on a piece of stiff paper. Or, as in the case of a yoke or collar where a fitted shaping is required, a fitted pattern should be cut of stiff paper, and the ribbon, braid or folds of the material basted evenly in position, following all the curves. When the fagoting is to be applied to the garment in fancy design, and the material underneath the stitches cut away afterward, the entire piece of work should be smoothly basted over paper, and the line of spacing which represents the fagot-stitching outlined with chalk or tracing cotton.

THE SIMPLE FAGOT-STITCH is done by crossing first from left to right, and recrossing from side to side between the folds of the material, taking a small stitch in the edge. The needle in crossing each time passes under the thread of the preceding stitch, thus giving the threads a slight twist at the edge of the material. (Ill. 264.)

SIMPLE BEADING STITCHES are shown in Illustration 265 on this page.

To make the upper design, a buttonholed bar, take a stitch directly across the space between the two folds and work the buttonhole-stitch over the thread back to the starting-point. Then stick the needle into the edge of the fold near the hole of the first stitch to keep the bar from twisting, and on the under side pass on to position for the next bar.

In the lower design the thread is carried across as in the other case, and, returning, one loose buttonhole-stitch is made over the thread. Over this same loop run two closer buttonhole-stitches. Then make a second loose buttonhole-stitch over the first thread,