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Rh A FOUNDATION FOR MACHINE HEM-STITCHING is necessary under bias edges such as shaped collars (Ill. 245) under thin materials (Ill. 246) and for French hemstitching (Ill. 248) (several rows of hemstitching placed close together).

The foundation for such materials as net, Georgette crêpe, chiffon, lace, etc., may be mousseline de soie or very thin lawn.

The foundation for machine hemstitching done on the bias of the material can be a straight strip of the same material or of the foundations mentioned above, about one-half inch wide basted underneath the line to be hemstitched. (Ill. 247.) If no material

for a foundation is at hand, baste the article to a piece of firm paper and stitch it by machine along the line for the hemstitching. (Ill. 245.) This stitching keeps the edge from stretching and gives the operator the correct line for machine hemstitching. The paper should be torn away before the material is sent to the operator. Paper can also be used in this way under straight edges of thin material when you do not wish to use a foundation.

FRENCH HEMSTITCHING (several rows of hemstitching placed close together) requires a foundation when it is done on either thick or thin material. (Ill. 248.) The foundation can be of the same material or of the foundations mentioned above.

The seams or foundations are cut away close to the hemstitching after the hemstitching is done.

On edges other than seam edges when there is a single thickness of material leave about three-eighths of an inch of material outside the line of hemstitching.

PICOT EDGING is simply machine hemstitching cut through the center. (Ill. 249.) It makes a very dainty and yet strong finish for edges of collars, sleeves, tunics, ruffles, sashes, etc.

HAND-HEMSTITCHING is a line of openwork made by drawing out parallel threads and fastening the cross threads in successive small clusters. Draw as many threads of the material as desired at the top of the hem, and baste it on this line. Hold the hem toward you and work on the side on which it is turned up.

Illustration 250 shows the position of the hem with the stitching done from left to right.