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WELL-MADE GARMENT that is otherwise perfect may be greatly injured in appearance by badly made buttonholes. They should always be properly spaced and marked before they are cut. Mark the points for the top and bottom buttonholes, and divide the distance between these two points into the desired number of spaces. The slit must be cut on the thread of the goods, if possible, and must be large enough to allow the button to slip through easily, as a buttonhole becomes tighter after it is worked.

With the buttonhole scissors carefully test the length of the slit and make a clean cut with one movement of the scissors. One of the most noticeable faults in buttonholing results from an uneven or ragged slit. This may be caused by dull scissors or by the slipping of the fabric. To prevent the material from slipping, baste around the cutting line before using the scissors.

There are three kinds of buttonholes, one with the bar at both ends (Ill. 228), another with one round and one barred end (Ill. 229), and a third called the tailors' buttonhole. (Ill. 230.)

BARRED BUTTONHOLES as illustrated in Ill. 228 are used for underwear, waists and shirts. If the buttonhole is in an upright positiposition [sic] as in the center of a plait, or if the strain does not come at the ends of the buttonhole, as at the center back of a neckband, the buttonhole with a bar at both ends (Ill. 228) is used. If the strain on the buttonhole comes at one end so that the button requires a resting-place, as in a cuff or belt, use the buttonhole with the round end. (Ill. 229.) Buttonholes are stranded to prevent the edges from stretching. Bring the needle up at one end of the buttonhole and, allowing the thread to lie along the edge of the cut on the right side of the material, stick down at the opposite end. Do the same on the other side of the cut and stick down opposite the first stitch, with a stitch across the end to fasten the thread, (Ill 228.)