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108 pocket should be ½ of an inch wider on both sides than the opening. A breast pocket should be about 3½ inches deep, a lower pocket about 5 inches deep.

Lay the finished welt face down below the pocket line on the right side of the garment (Ill. 217) with the unfinished edge exactly even with the line marked for the opening. Baste it in place. Lay the inner section of the pocket face down above the pocket line, close up to the welt, and baste it in place. (Ill. 217.) Run a row of machine stitching ⅛ of an inch in from both sides, and tie the threads securely. Turn the seam edge of the welt back and press it back flat against the welt. (Ill. 217.)

Take the outer or larger section of the pocket and lay it right side up over the inner section and welt. (Ill. 218.) Turn the upper edge under ⅛ of an inch from the top of the welt and trim it out at the ends of the welt so that it is ⅛ of an inch smaller. (Ill. 218.) Fell these edges down. (Ill. 218.) Sew the satin along the seam edge of the welt and again ¼ of an inch inside it. (Ill. 218.)

Cut the opening with a sharp pen-knife or pointed embroidery scissors following the thread line to within ⅛ of an inch of the ends. Make a cut from that point to the stitching line on both sides forming a. Push both pocket sections through to the wrong side of the garment and turn the welt up in place. Blind sew the ends of the welt to the garment at the edge and again ¼ of an inch in.

Turn the garment to the wrong side and seam up the pocket edges and overcast them. (Ill. 219.) Press the seam downward and bar tack (Chapter 25, page 127) the ends of the opening to prevent their pulling out. Give the pocket a final pressing on the right side. The finished welt is shown in Illustration 220.