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106 cut of pocketing or drill, the lower four and half inches long, the upper piece five inches long. Both pieces should be an inch wider than the opening.

The pocket pieces are slipped under the facings, basted and stitched from the right side. (Ill. 211.) Strengthen the ends of the opening on the right side with a bar tack or arrow-head. (Chapter 25, page 127.)

The raw edges of the facings are turned under and stitched to the pocket pieces (Ill. 211). The upper pocket piece is then turned down over the lower and basted and stitched to it around its three open sides. The Raw edges may be bound or overcast.

This pocket is illustrated on the preceding page.

IN A POCKET WITH AN IN-AND-OUT LAP the latter is finished completely before the pocket is begun. Cut the piece for the lap from the cloth, being careful to have the grain or stripe of the goods match when the lap is laid on the jacket in the position it will have when the pocket is completed. (Ill. 212.) Turn in and baste a seam on three sides. Run two rows of even stitching around the edge from the right side, the first row one-eighth of an inch from the edge. Then add a lining of silk, slip-stitching it on by hand.

Now lay the finished lap face down on the goods with its raw edge down, and even with the line of bastings that indicate the pocket opening. The rest of the work is the same as for the pocket described above. In this case, however, the section of the facing strip which is supplemented by the lap is cut away.

AN OPEN POCKET is made similar to the one having an in-and-out lap. The lap is made straight or on a slant (Ill. 213), not quite so wide as for a loose lap, and is joined to the garment at the lower edge of the slit in an upright position and is attached to it at each side.

A BOUND POCKET OPENING should be bound with a bias strip of self or contrasting material about 1½ inch wide and ½ inch longer than the pocket opening. Turn under each end of the strip ¼ of an inch. (Ill. 214.)

Mark the line of the pocket through the pocket perforations with tailors' tacks. (Page 85.)

Place the strip on the outside of the