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Rh {|align = center pocket line and about an eighth of an inch from it. (Ill. 205.) Tie the ends of the threads firmly so that the stitching can not pull out, and then cut through the pocket line with a sharp knife, cutting through both the facing and the garment material. Push the facing through the slit. (Ill. 206.)
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Rebaste the facing from the outside, letting it form a head or cording an eighth of an inch deep at the edges of the pocket. It should be stitched on the upper edge of the pocket hole from the right side. Cross-stitch the pocket edges together to hold them in shape until the garment is finished. Turn down the upper edge of the pocket facing as close to the stitching as possible, and press flat to wrong side of garment. (Ill. 208.)

Cut from strong cotton or drill a pocket piece about twelve and a half inches long and two inches wider than the pocket opening. Shape one end of the pocket like the curved pocket opening and insert it between the lower pocket facing and the garment, close to the opening. (Ill. 207.) Baste it in place from the wrong side, turn the garment portion over to right side, and stitch through both facing and pocket close to opening. Turn under lower edge of pocket facing and stitch it to pocket (Ill. 207), but not to the garment.

Now turn up the pocket about four and a half inches from the opening and baste it in place with its upper edge toward the top of the garment. From the right side, stitch through the garment and the pocket along the upper edge of the pocket opening. Turn under the edge of the upper part of the facing and hem it to the pocket (Ill. 208). Do it from the right side, pushing the pocket and facing through the slit. The sides of the pocket are closed with a row of machine stitching about three-eighths of an inch from the edges. (Ill. 209.) The ends (Ill. 210) are finished with an arrow-head (page 127).

A PERFECTLY STRAIGHT OPENING has a facing of material applied as directed above. (Ills. 205 and 206.) Two pocket pieces are