Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/106

102 A PLACKET-HOLE AT THE UNDER FOLD OF A PLAIT is often used. Cut through the crease or under fold in the plait to the regular placket depth. Bind both cut edges of the plait with binding ribbon or a binding of thin silk. This method allows the plait to serve as a placket underlap.

The outer fold of the plait may be stitched (Ill. 196), leaving the under portion of the plait free. Illustration 196 shows the position of the hooks and eyes or the patent fasteners on the under fold of the plait.

If the plait is in a skirt that fits at the top so that there is likely to be a strain on the placket, hooks and eyes are the strongest fastenings. But if it is a plaited skirt where the plaits fall free and there is no strain on the placket, snap fasteners may be used.

THE PLACKET-HOLE AT THE CENTER OF A HABIT BACK is practically the same as for the skirt with an inverted plait closed at the center-back seam. (Ill. 197.)

A PLACKET-HOLE UNDER A STRAPPED SEAM is shown in Illustration 198. The right-hand fold of the strap is stitched flat to the skirt. The left-hand edge of the strap is turned under and stitched to itself, following the same line of stitching that holds the rest of the strap to the skirt. (Ill. 198.)

The hooks are sewed to the left edge of the strap. Notice that they are set close together and a trifle back from the edge. A strap placket must be held firmly to keep the line of trimming absolutely straight. For the same reason it is just as well to add a row of patent fasteners just back of the hooks. (Ill. 198.)

The underlap should be an inch and a half wide and an inch longer than the placket-hole, finished. (Ill. 199.) It should be made of the skirt material and its edges bound with seam binding or silk. Blind loops are used instead of eyes and should be worked on the skirt in corresponding positions to the eyes. The fasteners are sewed to the lap.

THE PLACKET-HOLE IN A SKIRT SET IN THE SAME BELT with its foundation skirt is made by the same methods as an ordinary placket. In such an instance, the placket opening of the skirt and foundation skirt are finished separately.

Whatever kind of placket is used, one should be particularly careful to see that the hooks and eyes or fasteners are so arranged that they will keep the holes securely closed. Nothing looks worse than a gaping placket, and any woman who takes a pride in her personal appearance will pay special attention to this part of her dressmaking.