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98 tucks running in one direction should be made first. The cross tucks should be the same size and should be placed the same distance apart as the first tucks, so that when the tucks and cross tucks are finished they will form perfect squares. (Ill. 186.) Cross tucks may be of various sizes, but pin-tucks placed about an inch apart measuring from the sewing of one tuck to the edge of the next are particularly dainty.

IN LAYING PLAITS in a garment it is advisable if possible to lay the plaits before the seams are joined.

IN STITCHING PLAITS it is best to leave at least one seam of the garment open, and if it is a skirt, remove it from the belt, for the work can be more easily handled under the machine if it is open and flat.

After stitching the plaits as desired, baste and stitch the seam.

If it is a skirt, put it on the belt, press the plaits and try the skirt on to get the correct length.

A hem is the best finish for the bottom of a plaited skirt or dress. (Chapter 18, page 93.)

Be careful to get the plaits even, without any draw, especially where the edges come bias.

As each plait is flattened it should be basted a little distance from the fold edge, as shown in Illustration 187. to keep it in shape. This will be found a great convenience later in working on the garment.

When a plaited skirt is made of heavy material or is lapped very much at the waist in fitting, it may be made less bulky by cutting away the surplus material after the plaits are stitched. The overlapping material is cut away to within an inch or so of where the stitching finishes. (Ill. 188.) From that point it is cut across the top of the plait. (Ill. 188.) The raw edges left in this way are bound with a bias strip of lining or ribbon seam binding, that will finish across the top of each plait (Ill. 188.) except where the seams that join the