Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908).djvu/35

Rh found that it led down to the Rupal side of the main chain.

We in consequence camped a second night (very short supplies of food), and came over the Mazeno Pass to a little hamlet, where we got a sheep and unlimited milk, and happily found one of our coolies, who had got ill on the way to the Diamarai, and most happily he had a bag of flour. The Ghurka made us excellent chulpaties, and we feasted like anything.

The next morning we started at daybreak, and made a little pass of 16,500 ft. across to the Diamarai.

On the way down our shikari met us with a great can of delicious milk and a bag of chulpaties.

He is a very jovial old chap, and looks after us like anything.

To-morrow I am going to start on an exploration of Nanga itself.

There is a nice little ridge of rock (broken) leading up between two glaciers. I think it is easy enough for Chilasi porters.

If so I shall fix a camp at the very top, about 18,000 ft.

From that point, with the two Ghurkas, one can push a camp to 22,000 ft., at the very foot of the final peak, which on this side is easy rock.

Our camp is palatial, plates and dishes, knives and forks, four tents, cook, and Deputy Lumbardar of Bonda, whence we draw supplies, three