Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908).djvu/332

326 valley through well-timbered slopes. About 4 p.m. we reached a grassy glade surrounded by fine trees and intersected by brawling rivulets. It was an ideal camping-ground, and both Zurfiuh and I felt our day's work was ended. Tall fern suggested luxurious mattresses, and decaying trees a roaring camp-fire. The Suanetian porters, how ever, protested. The proper place to camp was, they said, an hour further up. I went a few yards along the path and emerged on a great open alp. Along the steep slope of the gorge the path could be seen winding upwards through a region of grass, unrelieved by shrub or tree. The delights of the lower camp were irresistible, and I returned to our sheltered glade. The Suanetians still objected. They evidently thought that as they had not got to the regular gîte a corresponding part of their pay would be deducted. Finding this was not the case, they drew their long knives and cut the fern for our mattresses. They then lit a huge fire, and collected such a store of logs and sticks that it would have lasted a frugal Swiss the whole winter.

Next they prepared the chicken, severing the breastbone longitudinally and opening them into flat plate-like objects; these were impaled on long wooden spits and set to cook. As the supplies were abundant, we gave the Suanetians an invitation to dinner. Squatting round the fire we had