Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908).djvu/329

Rh bread, fresh butter, and milk—dainties which the natives had learnt are appreciated by the hobnailed western. At the end of a somewhat protracted walk we reached the guest-house, and found that one of the fleet-footed youths had preceded us and lit a blazing fire. The cheery, dancing flames fell on the strange faces and curious dresses of our hosts, while the dark, weird shadows that lurked in the remoter corners afforded pleasing cover from which the younger and more bashful natives could watch the proceedings.

Tea, unleavened cakes, and eggs were immediately forthcoming, supplemented, on the arrival of the various breathless youths, by fresh milk, butter, and leavened bread. During the progress of this meal we learnt that the female members of the Starshina's family were engaged in the preparation of a banquet of much complex magnificence. Knowing from past experience that this banquet would probably be ready about 1 a.m., we begged the Starshina to excuse us, alleging fatigue and the need of sleep. One of the active youths was accordingly hurried into the darkness, and I trust succeeded in stopping the culinary efforts and enabled the ladies to obtain their due allowance of beauty sleep. Various elaborate preparations were then made for our comfort; the crowd of visitors were unceremoniously ejected; the mysteries of the bolts and bars were explained;