Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908).djvu/238

232, the more so as it would be impossible to return the same way and we should have to descend by Mr. Whymper's route. Unluckily, neither of us were exactly acquainted with it, though we knew in a general way that a big couloir led to the Talêfre glacier. Some one suggested as an alternative that we should try the Dru; but this did not find favour in our eyes, and we started upwards with no very definite plans. Reaching the Glacier de Charpoua, we struck on to the ice and discussed our plans in earnest, finally deciding to examine the merits of our couloir. We mutually disclaimed any intention of making the ascent, but still we would go far enough to see if it were worth a second attempt. Later in the day, having our hearts warmed by the near neighbourhood of the summit and a bottle of Bouvier, we confessed that some faint hope of climbing the peak had cheered us on our way. But to return to my story, Burgener, inwardly intending to do a good day's work, handed over the lantern to me as he did not wish to fatigue himself prematurely. We found the glacier a good deal crevassed, and many steps had to be cut, but by daybreak we reached the tongue of rocks which splits the Glacier de Charpoua into two arms. This tongue is now better known as the upper Dru gîte, and is frequently used by parties ascending that mountain. It is needless to add that our route to this point is not that which