Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908).djvu/236



S Burgener and I were coming across the Col du Géant early in 1881 it appeared to us that the ascent of the Aiguille Verte might be effected by the south-western face; a convenient couloir leading right up to the western ridge of the mountain from the head of the Glacier de Charpoua. Burgener was, indeed, so struck with the possibilities of this route, that he could hardly believe such a promising line had not already been taken by some of the diligent searchers after new ascents. These fears were, I assured him, quite groundless, and on our arrival at Chamonix they were finally set at rest.

After a long discussion we decided to make a midnight start from the Montenvers, for I had not, at that early period, seen the folly of spending the hours of night in painful tumbles into holes and crevasses. Burgener with the wisdom of age, and skilled in the art of sleeping soundly at temperatures which would keep his Monsieur dancing