Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus (1908).djvu/232

226 reliable step on the ice slope above it. Climbing from Hastings's shoulder to this step was by no means easy, and Collie was warned to look out for squalls. The lips so overhung that a man falling would have missed the Schrund altogether, and, if unchecked by the rope, would have started on a wild career down the steep slopes curving ever towards the huge ice couloir.

Just above the lip the ice was very steep, and it was not till seventy feet of rope had been paid out that such reliable footing could be cut, as would suffice to secure the next man's safety. Hastings was then hoisted up by the united efforts of Slingsby and Collie, and on his arrival at the big step I went on a short distance further, to a snow-filled crevasse in which was an admirable and pleasing seat. As, however, it was beyond the reach of our rope, a second lighter one had to be got out and to be tied to it. Slingsby came up next, and then the serious problem of Collie's ascent had to be tackled. So long as a man remained below to give a shoulder, the lip of the Schrund could be reached and the ascent effected in a reasonable manner, but the last man had, obviously, to be hauled up by main force. Unfortunately we were so far up the slope, and the projecting lip so deflected and cut off all sound, that we could not hear what Collie said. All we could do was to haul with one accord, but we soon found that our efforts ceased to have any effect.