Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.djvu/44

Rh straight up, we climbed to the snow ridge just where it merges into the rocky teeth.

We found the mountain almost completely free from snow and ice, and were able to climb without serious difficulty on the face to the left of the ridge—in the gully falling away to the Matterhorn glacier—which, when I was there previously, had been excessively dangerous. Similar good luck followed us when we emerged on the western face, and we found places, which in 1879 had been very formidable, comparatively easy and simple. By 9.10 a.m. we gained the upper Zmutt ridge. This, owing to the absence of snow, was quite easy, and a little before 10 a.m. we reached the summit. The fear of approaching bad weather had, however, driven us ever forward at our best pace, and it is not likely the ascent will often be made as rapidly.

Four days later, three parties were on this face of the mountain together. Miss Bristow, with young Pollinger and Zurbriggen (ascended by the Hörnli route and descended by the Zmutt ridge—the first descent effected on this side of the mountain); Dr. Güssfeldt with Rey; and Mr. Farrar with D. Maquignaz (both ascended by the Zmutt ridge; Dr. Güssfeldt descending by the Hörnli route and Mr. Farrar returning by the Zmutt).