Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.djvu/24

Rh obtrusively easy route to a height of about 13,000 feet, and on the final ridge, from about 14,000 feet to the summit, the climber had little to fear. Serious difficulty was limited to the short section of the route by which these two highways would have to be connected. From observations on this and previous occasions, it was evident that where the Zmutt ridge first steepens, till it verges on the perpendicular, it would be necessary to bear to the left into a deeply cut couloir, which falls in appalling precipices to the Matterhorn glacier. The upper part of this couloir, where alone we should have to deal with it, did not, however, look altogether hopeless, and, provided it could be ascended, the ridge would be regained above the first inaccessible step. A short distance further, where it again becomes perpendicular, or rather actually overhangs, it was apparently possible to swerve to the right on to the long slopes of the western face, and, after a considerable ascent, to regain the Zmutt ridge above all serious difficulty. Having decided upon this somewhat ambitious programme, I went down to Zermatt to find a suitable guide to carry it out.

In front of the Monte Rosa Hotel I met an old companion, Alois Burgener, who gave me the joyful news that his brother Alexander might possibly be able to join me for a few days. The broad-shouldered Alexander, his face half hidden in beard, was then interviewed, he bluntly expressed