Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.djvu/208

Rh Slingsby cut himself a step and made himself firm, and I essayed to ascend; but want of training made itself felt, and I suffered from the ridiculous idea that a slip would pull Slingsby out of his hold. Retreating for a moment, Collie was added to the anchor; then Hastings, firmly planted at the corner, gave me a lift, and after a short struggle the top was won. So soon as the next man was up, I unroped and went off to see whether we could reach practicable glacier. This proved perfectly easy, and a weary climber was soon reposing on the snow, offering devout and most heartfelt prayers that the progress of his companions might be slow. Not merely was a gratifying response to these aspirations vouch-safed, but on the arrival of my companions they promptly sat down, as if it were the most natural and proper thing for enthusiastic climbers at 5.30 a.m. to indulge in a protracted halt. Shame at length drove us on to our feet and we laboured solemnly up the slopes, each member of the party exhibiting a most pleasing and touching modesty in the matter of leading.

At 6.10 a.m. we struck the rock. I injudiciously jammed myself in a chimney, and had the pleasure of seeing the rest of the party, led by Collie, going up slightly to the left with ease and cheerfulness. Having extricated myself from the chimney I followed, and discovered the rest of the party. They said they were waiting for me, but the