Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.djvu/150

Rh the slopes below to the moraine of the Mer de Glace, we kept to our left and used the great gap (Professor Tyndall's cleft station) as a pass, thus materially reducing the number of loose stones we had to traverse before reaching the Montenvers.

The idea that the Mer de Glace face was the true line of attack did not survive this expedition. We once more determined to turn our attention to the Nantillon side, and, as a beginning, to attempt to get along the ridge from the Charmoz-Grépon Col. It did not occur to us that the easiest way to the Nantillon Glacier would be to traverse the lower buttresses of the Little Charmoz from the Montenvers inn, the route which is now invariably taken, but, in our ignorance, we went down to Chamonix as a preliminary to the assault.

On August 3rd, accordingly, I was remorselessly ejected from my bed at 1.30 a.m., and informed that there was not a cloud or even a rag of mist for laziness and a love of slumber to modestly shelter beneath, so, reviling guides, mountains, and early starts, I got into my clothes and came down to the chill and comfortless salon. I then found that neither hot tea for the Monsieur nor breakfast for the guides was forthcoming. Doubtless the just retribution awarded by Providence (or M. Couttet) to those who bring Swiss guides to Chamonix.

We got on very slowly at first, our progress being much hindered by a bottle lantern.