Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.djvu/135

110 THE AIGUILLE DES CHARMOZ—WITHOUT GUIDES.

The ascent was not repeated for several years, but at length Monsieur Dunod and F. Simond found their way to the southern summit, and the following year they recovered the axe we had left on its northern peak. The mountain soon after became the most popular climb in the Montenvers district, and the traverse of the five peaks (as it is now called) is recognised as the best and merriest introduction to the Chamonix rock scrambles.

In 1892 I once again started for the mountain. This time we were without guides, for we had learnt the great truth that those who wish to really enjoy the pleasures of mountaineering, must roam the upper snows trusting exclusively to their own skill and knowledge. The necessity for this arises from many causes, and is to no small extent due to the marked change that has come over the professional mountaineer. The guide of the "Peaks, Passes and Glaciers" age was a friend and adviser; he led the party and entered fully into all the fun and jollity of the expedition; on the return to the little mountain inn, he was still, more or less, one of the party, and the evening pipe could only be enjoyed in his company. Happy amongst his own mountains and skilled in ferreting out all the slender resources of the village, he was an invaluable and most pleasant companion. But