Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/95

Rh Close by Sheikh Mohammed, with several of his relatives, was seated; we saluted each other, and passed on. Bernhard Heilpern had accomplished his mission, and the Sheikh had declared that he considered himself engaged to settle with us before coming to an arrangement with any other party. He no doubt inwardly chuckled at the good fortune which had sent him at one time two sets of English travellers to fleece, and to outbid each other for the honour of his valuable services.

Sheikh Mohammed Ibn Jhad, head of the Alowîn tribe, is a man of about sixty summers; of full, rather common-place features, dark eyes, and beard tinged with grey. He was clad in a rich scarlet cloak lined with yellow silk, a white shirt and girdle, yellow silken khefeyeh on his head, and red leather boots. He earned a large, rather antique scimitar, and a revolver was stuck in his girdle; of course the long pipe was in his hand. He spoke with animation, and much modulation of voice, from the sotto voce of confidence to the high pitch of expostulation.

His brother, Sheikh Ali, who afterwards became our guide through the Wâdy el Arabah, was of the usual Arab type, with sharp aquiline features, and dark restless eyes. He was less gorgeously clad than his elder brother, and only chimed in occasionally during the conversation relating to our proposed route. In one respect both brothers exactly resembled each other—they loved money much!

That evening the preliminaries were verbally agreed upon, in presence of the Government notary, who was to draw up a document for signature, in which the terms were to be distinctly stated, and the following evening was appointed for the execution of the deed. The terms were to the effect that Sheikh Ali (as representing his brother) was to conduct us safely up to the entrance of the valley towards Petra and Mount Hor (Jebel Haroun), and one day’s march up the Wâdy el Arabah beyond; from which point we were to turn off to the left towards Gaza, to the south of the territory of the Tîhyaha, with whom the Alowîn were at feud. We were not to sleep even for one night at Petra; or to delay longer than absolutely necessary in a district the inhabitants of which were, in the Sheikh’s opinion, “very bad people.” We were to pay (as we supposed) 36 dollars for the right to pass through his lands, and so much for each camel per day. The whole journey was to be completed in 15 days; and