Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/59

Rh lastly, the process is concluded by the camel bringing the remainder of his hind legs into the erect position. The reverse process need scarcely be described. As the camel walks along he occasionally takes a bite of some favourite plant; but this often becomes very troublesome if the traveller is in a hurry to get on; and besides this the plants often disagreeably taint his breath.

Each camel is provided with a driver, to whom he generally belongs; and between them there is established a bond of sympathy, as they have probably been brought up together from childhood, at least on one side. The camel will sometimes obey no other leader, and if compelled by ill-treatment to do so, has been known to take his revenge on the occurrence of a favourable opportunity. My camel driver was a nice little fellow, of whom I got quite fond. His name was "Sala," and he was the son of a minor Sheikh of the Towâra tribe. His cousin, Khalîl, was driver to Mr. Hart's camel, and as they both dressed exactly alike, were about the same height, and had somewhat similar countenances, I for some time took them for brothers. Khalîl was rather the more active and stronger of the two. They were great friends, and when they were marching side by side, leading their respective camels, they carried on lively conversations, which I often wished I could understand. Sala wore a red and white turban, a white cotton shirt descending below the knee, girt round the waist by a broad leather belt, and a loose mantle gracefully thrown over the shoulder. He carried his long gun slung behind his back, a little antique sword by his side, his pipe in the left hand, and the camel rope in his right. Inside his mantle was a leather strap passing over the shoulder with cases for powder and ball; and within the folds of one of his garments was carried his money, his flint, steel, and touch paper, and other small articles. The colour of his skin was rich bronze. He had a pleasant face, and large expressive eyes which would light up with pleasure on any little act of kindness being offered to him, or on having performed some act for which I expressed my thanks. He was always at his post in the morning; the camel saddled, water-bottle and saddle-bags properly adjusted and ready for the early start. Good little Sala:—how many weary miles have you trudged untiringly with me over the sandy plain, or the almost interminable valley, without a murmur or appearance of impatience!

The sun had long set and the moon was shining out clear and brilliant, ere we reached our camp in the Wâdy Gharandel. This valley is one of the most fertile in the desert. It descends from the east along the base of a