Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/54

30 of the host in the Wilderness was pitched at Ayun Mûsa. It may here be well to state our usual marching arrangements, which were observed throughout as far as circumstances would permit. We generally rose a little after daybreak, breakfasted about 7.30; and while breakfasting the Arabs and servants were busy taking down the tents, loading the camels, and preparing for a start. A small luncheon tent was reserved to accompany the Dragoman, but as soon as the baggage camels were ready they started on their way. Soon after 8 o'clock we were in our saddles, and ere long left the baggage camels in the rear; but at noon the luncheon tent was pitched, and those of the party within reach gathered for lunch and rest. It often happened, however, that Major Kitchener or others of the party were too far apart to join in the noonday meal. During our halt the baggage camels would pass, so that on our arrival at the camping ground we generally found the tents set up, furnished, and all things in preparation for dinner, the usual hour for which was 7 o'clock. This meal was always looked forward to after a long day's march with zest, as the time when fatigues could be forgotten, hunger satisfied, and the events of the day discussed.

Should my reader have the curiosity to inquire how we satisfied our thirst, often in "a dry and thirsty land where no water is," I may be allowed in reply to state that the beverages we found most useful were, for dinner, claret and water, in the proportion of one of the former to two of the latter. Tea we found more refreshing even than coffee, which it gradually replaced; and for one member of our party, who was a total abstainer, it was an essential. Brandy we seldom touched, and only used medicinally. Cigarettes were a great consolation in a long march and after dinner; and the Arab guide always appreciated the offer of one of these little articles of luxury, which helped to relieve the dull monotony of a continuous tramp through weary miles of sandy or gravelly ground. The route we were to take had been carefully considered by the Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fund, and Colonel Sir Charles Wilson had favoured me with the results of his knowledge and experience of the Sinaitic peninsula. By his advice we selected the road to Jebel Mûsa, by Serabet el Jemel, and the Wady Nasb, in preference to that by the Wildy Feiran usually taken by travellers. By this route we should be able to examine the beds of limestone belonging to the "Desert Sandstone" formation, from which he and Mr. Bauerman had collected the only