Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/43

Rh All our party but myself elected to ascend the summit—I to visit the interior, in hopes of recognising some of Professor Piazzi Smyth's marks and determinations; so, delivering myself into the hands of four Arabs, I dived into the dark passage. This is an undertaking which (as Miss Martineau observes) no one should attempt who is at all of a nervous temperament. You soon begin to repent of your choice when you find yourself within the dark walls, descending deeper and deeper, two savages before and two behind. Occasionally they stop, and put the question, "How you feel, sir?" to which, of course, you reply, "Oh, quite well!" Inwardly you feel quite the reverse, but it is no time to allow the slightest hint of timidity to escape. At length, after an indefinite descent, and another equally indefinite ascent, you find yourself in the great interior called the "King's Chamber," dark and oppressive, notwithstanding the flickering of the candles which your guides carry. And now they take advantage of their opportunity: they demand bakhsheesh, produce various "antiqua," generally shams, and strive to make you purchase on the spot. Making a virtue of necessity, I promised bakhsheesh all round, and that I would make certain purchases upon getting to the open air, it being manifestly impossible to examine these articles with the aid of their gloomy light. This satisfies my tormentors, and after a hasty glance all round, we commence our outward descent, and at length emerge into the dazzling light of day. My guides again produce their "antiqua" demand their bakhsheesh; but now it is my time to make terms. Seating myself on a stone, I proceed to select what I wish, and to name my own price; and finally, with a franc each for bakhsheesh, send them about their business.

Meanwhile my companions had descended from the summit of Cheops, and were engaged in discussing with their Arab guides "the great bakhsheesh question." My ambitious colleague, Mr. Hart, however, was not satisfied with the ascent of one pyramid; and, taking advantage of his opportunity, while the backs of the Arabs were turned, gave them the slip and was soon scaling the sides of Ghizeh, the top of which he safely reached. What, then, was the surprise of the guides on beholding one of the Englishmen from this elevated position calmly surveying the landscape!