Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/41

Rh that has been written upon these grand monuments of Egyptian art it might appear presumption to attempt to add even a small quota of information; still, at the risk of such an imputation, I venture to give a brief account of my own impressions.

The drive out from Cairo is very charming. Having crossed the river the road runs along its bank for several miles under the shade of over-hanging branches of the Nile acacia, and fine views of Cairo and of the range of the Mokattam Hills behind are obtained. Here we happened to meet the Khedive and his retinue on returning from his morning drive, and further on we turned in at a gate leading past the palace built for the Prince of Wales, through groves of oranges, lemons (just beginning to ripen), fields of maize, sugarcane, and cotton. Another turn brought us to the causeway, which runs in a straight line westward towards the base of the platform on which the Pyramids of Cheops and Ghizeh are built, and from which the first view of them, is obtained. The first view will probably disappoint the traveller, for (owing to the transparency of the air) the distance is greater than he supposes; consequently the structures appear smaller than is really the case. The avenue itself is three miles long, in a perfectly straight line, over-arched by acacia trees, whose shady boughs, laden with large fruit-pods, afford a grateful shade from the sun's rays.

The best view of the Pyramids is obtained from a part of the causeway road, about half a mile from the platform on which they are built. From this point the four principal Pyramids are seen ranged in line; that of Cheops, or “the Great Pyramid,” in front; that of Ghizeh next, and two much smaller ones in the rear. In the background is the ridge of sand which marks the line of the desert, stretching on either hand for miles.

It is well known that these great tombs of Egyptian monarchs are built on a platform of the nummulite limestone, which has been partially levelled for the foundations, but has never been entirely cleared from the accumulated rubbish. This platform of solid rock marks the limits of the Nile Valley. On driving up to the summit of the platform you are immediately beset by a crowd of importunate Arabs, who have mastered sufficient of your language to make you understand that independent action is out of the question, and that you may as well resign yourself submissively into their hands. Having done so, and decided whether you will ascend to the summit or descend into the vast interior,