Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/35

Rh this tract into a vast field for agricultural purposes, while the waters which would pass off into the Mediterranean, being to a great extent deprived of their silt, would cause immediate relief to the harbour of Port Saïd, and that part of the canal which opens into it. This is a grand scheme, calculated to be of benefit both to the agricultural and commercial interests of Egypt. I can only express the hope that Mr. Le Mesurier may have the happiness of seeing it one day put into execution.

On approaching Alexandria, a pilot came on board to steer us through the intricate channel by which the harbour is entered; and on rounding the point of the large breakwater, we came in view of the city and its harbour all at once, a view calculated to afford both pleasure and surprise,—pleasure at its beauty; surprise, that a harbour and city so recently the scene of a tremendous bombardment, should, at first sight, present such slight traces of the conflict. In front lay the city, built on a gradually-ascending slope, and in the background to the left the elevated and fashionable suburb of Ramleh. On the left of the harbour, the Fort of Pharos, partly in ruins, the lighthouse, and the Palace of Ras-el-Teen, white and glistening in the sunshine, and surrounded by pleasant gardens. On the right, the barracks, fortifications, lighthouse, and other public buildings: and in the distance, the noble column known as “Pompey's Pillar.” The harbour itself was gay and busy. Ships of many nations lay at their moorings, both merchantmen and passenger steamships; while the beautiful yacht of the Khedive swung at anchor in the centre. The surface of the water swarmed with smaller craft and barges, amongst which was one to convey on shore Her Majesty's Consul, Mr. Cookson, who had made the passage with us from Port Saïd, and whose acquaintance we had the pleasure of making. He kindly insisted on sending us ashore in his barge, and told off his khawass to accompany us to our hotel, and afterwards to conduct us over the palace and fortifications. Owing to this kind action on the part of Mr. Cookson, we were enabled to see the principal sights of this ancient city to the best advantage; nor did this gorgeous, but most amiable, official leave us till he had seen us off in the train for Cairo in the evening.

We found much of the city in ruins—ruins caused by the mob, not by British guns; and, as much uncertainty prevailed as regards the future of Egypt, restoration and rebuilding were proceeding but slowly. It