Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/262

214 extensive cultivation, instead of running to waste on the hillsides, as shown by the remains of terraces which still exist almost perfect in many cases.

I heard many stories of the ruins and interesting country that lie to the east, which formed the ancient land of Edoni, and I was frequently told that Wâdy Mûsa or Petra is not the most extensive ruin in that district.

The descent to the ghôr was down a sandy slope of 300 feet, and the change of climate was most marked, from the sandy desert to masses of tangled vegetation with streams of water running in all directions, birds fluttering from every tree, the whole country alive with life: nowhere have I seen so great and sudden a contrast.

The principal Sheikh of the Huweitat Bedouins, Sheikh 'Arari, was camped close to the bottom of the descent, and he came out with some mounted men to meet us.

The country ruled over by Sheikh 'Arari includes nearly the whole of ancient Edom, from Jebel Serbal to the ghôr where the Bedouins were camped; he is chief of the Bedouins who do not cultivate the ground. There are also several other small tribes of fellahin Arabs who cultivate the ground, and also acknowledge him as their chief; these fellahin are more difficult to deal with than the Arabs themselves, having no law, and acknowledging no government. The only way to deal with them would be through Sheikh 'Arari, who is a very respectable Sheikh, and to whom they have to pay tribute. The 'Allawin Arabs under Sheikh Muhammed Ibn Jhad rule the country to the south of Jebel Serbal and to the east of the Wady 'Arabah; they are closely allied to the Huweitat Arabs, and originally they say they were all one tribe. Even now the 'Allawin call themselves sometimes Huweitat; they are under the Egyptian Government, and are employed to protect the Haj road south of 'Akabah. Another branch of the same Arabs is the important tribe of Egyptian Huweitâts under Sheikh Ibrahim Ibn Shedid, whose influence extends over the tribes as far as 'Akabah.

These three Sheikhs rule over a very vast country; they are closely related by marriage, as the Arab Sheikh is very particular that his wife should be of noble blood, i.e., of the family of the Sheikhs. They also recognise that they were originally of one tribe, although they are now completely independent of one another.

The next most important tribe is the Ma'azi Arabs; they rule over the mountains of Kerak, which they are said to have taken from Sheikh 'Arâri's