Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/193

Rh Bethlehem is now altogether a Christian town, and has a thriving and progressive appearance. The top of the ridge on which it is built is covered by substantial stone houses, while the valleys around are clothed with verdure, and planted out in extensive olive gardens. Terrace succeeds terrace from the bottom to the summits of the hills, which are steep-sided, and require to be thus laid out in order to afford footing to the plants. The work of construction must have been labourious, and brings to mind some of the vine terraces along the banks of the Rhine. Through these olive groves our pathway lay; and having climbed to the summit of the hill we entered the city, and after winding through narrow streets and passages, we at length found ourselves in front of the Franciscan Convent adjoining the Church of the Nativity. Here we were admitted by a brother who recognised our conductor, Bernhard Heilpern, and after a short consultation we were shown into the Guest Hall, where lunch, which we carried with us, was spread. Here we partook of the Convent wine, grown on the spot, which was good; and of the Convent coffee, which was better!

After lunch we proceeded to visit "the Holy Places," and the interior of the church. It was strange to see a Turkish soldier keeping guard while service was proceeding in the Greek portion of the building; but since 1873, when an attack was made by the Greeks on the Romans, a guard is always present to keep the peace between the rival Christian sects at the birthplace of their Founder, the Prince of Peace. The disgraceful riot referred to above, and the scenes of violence which annually take place at Christmas round the site of the Nativity, are little calculated to impress Moslems with a reverence for Christianity.

Leaving the town, and having passed numerous workshops, where the hum of industry was everywhere to be heard, we turned a little off our road to visit the "Well of David," and observe the extensive prospect from this position. Here we had a view of Bethlehem from the northern side, where it is best seen. Between our position and the City of David lay a wide valley, sloping downwards in the direction of the Jordan depression and partially laid out in gardens, terraced vineyards, and olive groves. On the opposite side the stone and arched buildings cover the sides and summit of the ridge, terminating with the Church and Convent of the Nativity on the left. Turning eastwards, and looking down the valley, we recognised the deep depression of The Ghôr by the haze which rises over the hollow; and beyond was the table-land of Moab,