Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/154

120 On Saturday, 22nd December, we deemed it desirable, on economical grounds, to dismiss the greater number of our Arab attendants, only retaining, at a greatly reduced expense, the services of Sheikh Ali and a small guard, till our mules should come from Jerusalem. Let me here do justice to our Bedawin attendants. At the first, on starting from Akabah, we formed (as previously stated) but a low estimate of the Alowln, and of their mental and physical capabilities. They were for the most part inferior in stature and in personal appearance to the Towara, from whom we had parted; and at first there was great difficulty in getting them to perform the duties of loading the camels, taking down and setting up tents, drawing water, and other daily occupations. Gradually, however, they got accustomed to their work, and more expeditious in performing it. We also began to find that there were with them, as in all communities, differences of character and acquirements: that, while some were lazy and untrustworthy, others were active and entitled to our confidence. They were generally cheerful, pleasant fellows, trying to anticipate our wants, honest to the last degree, and grateful for little kindnesses; — at least for a time. There were amongst them several young men of handsome features and good proportions, and in their gait there was a certain ease and grace of motion, evincing great activity and power of endurance. Their clothing was similar to that of the Towara, except that it was inferior in quality and they wore the khefeyeh instead of the turban. Such were our Alowln guards.

As regards the general character of the Bedawins there is much difference of opinion. By some they are regarded as treacherous in the extreme; others (such as the late Rev. F. W. Holland, who had had much experience and intercourse with them) seem to have entertained a very different opinion of them. My own opinion, based, it must be confessed, upon a comparatively limited experience, is favourable; nor does the fate of Palmer and Gill alter my opinion, as this lamentable event arose from circumstances quite exceptional. In recently traversing the district near to which this tragedy occurred. Major Kitchener stated that the Arabs everywhere expressed their detestation of the foul deed, and