Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/147

Rh at his disposal, and has left a graphic picture of the locality, which renders much detail in this place unnecessary.

Shortly after camping, we descended through the jungle separating the park-like region from the great plain of sand and mud, which is liable to inundations when the sea is in flood, and which is largely covered by the prostrate trunks of palms and other trees and plants which have been carried down by the torrents from the mountain valleys. It was the intention of Major Kitchener to measure a base line for triangulation along this nearly level plain, but it was found that the mud and slime were too soft in many places to admit of this being done with any approach to accuracy. He and Mr. Armstrong had, therefore, to content themselves with triangulating, and taking magnetic bearings, on known points. On returning to our camp in the evening, we were entertained to a prolonged chorus between the dogs of the village and the jackals of the thickets; while the discharge of distant guns amongst the hills, which we were informed came from the Haiwatats, announced the proximity of the foes of our present protector. Sheikh Ali.

The nocturnal noises of Es Safieh were indeed, to our unaccustomed ears, almost appalling. It is the custom of the cocks at this village to crow after sunset; and up to about bedtime the air was resonant with their voices. To these were added the barking of the dogs and the long shrill cries of the jackals. No one who is not a sound sleeper should pass a night at Es Safieh! About midnight I was awakened by the most strange and appalling noises. At first I thought we were about to be attacked by the Bedawins; but on listening for a little, I distinguished the peculiar high-pitched dismal cry of the jackal, mingling with the howling of the village dogs. The whole jackal population of the adjoining thickets and valleys seemed to have congregated around our camp, and to be holding council whether or not to make a raid on us. As, however, we all arose in safety in the morning, it is to be presumed they came to the conclusion to postpone the attack, at least for this night. It was one to be held in remembrance by us; the place at the time seemed a sort of pandemonium.

Considering the position of our camp unhealthy, I ordered it to be moved further inland from the jungle, and to one more open to the air, as well as more distant from the village. The spot was surrounded by open groves of small trees, of which several species of acacia and the