Page:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine.djvu/144

110 pleasant to hear. I afterwards learned that these children belonged to the tribe of the Alowîns and Hâwathas, all friends and relatives of our party, so we had cause for a hearty greeting.

We were soon, however, to meet with less welcome visitors. On proceeding some distance northwards we observed a small hill about a mile in front of us crowded with horsemen standing as sentinels, and evidently on the look out for us. Presently a Hîwatha, or Alowin, horseman galloped up from behind, and after the usual salutations informed us that the horsemen in front belonged to Sheikh Arari of Petra (who, it will be recollected, was absent at Damascus when we visited that place), and that behind him was the Sheikh of Kerak (Canon Tristram's friend, I presume), who, as our dragoman, Ibraham, informed us, was "a very bad man, and was always at war with all the other tribes." Thus, this personage, with such a bad reputation, happened to be down just at our arrival (so we were informed) amongst the Ghawarneh, whose guests we intended to become while waiting for horses from Jerusalem, and we were aware that he was a deadly enemy to Sheikh Ali, who headed our escort! It appeared to us we were getting into a trap, of which the door was closed in all directions except that we had just come; but to turn back was out of the question. After consultation it was decided to camp near the spot we were on, towards the eastern base of the hills, while Major Kitchener and Bernhard Heilpern, with some of the party, went ahead to ascertain on the spot from Sheikh Arari the real state of affairs, and his intentions towards ourselves.

Proceeding with our camels, we selected a spot for camping, and while the tents were being set up Mr. Armstrong and I ascended a little hill, from which we could witness the proceedings of Major Kitchener and those with him. They had reached the hill on which the horsemen had stationed themselves; and presently we saw several of these leave the hill, and, descending into the plain, commence careering over it, then wheeling round, brandishing their spears, and performing sundry equestrian feats, as is the manner of Arabs. Soon afterwards the whole party came down from the hill, and accompanied by our friends, who were on foot, they approached our camp in little parties at the rapid pace of Arab steeds. It was a pretty sight, as the party were handsomely dressed and carried their lances aloft; the horses, caparisoned with coloured cloths and tassels, were handsome, spirited little animals. The party consisted of Sheikh Arari, his relatives and special retainers; and no doubt were "the flower" of Arab cavalry.