Page:Mongolia, the Tangut country, and the solitudes of northern Tibet vol 1 (1876).djvu/204

 CHAPTER IV.

THE SOUTH-EASTERN BORDER OF THE PLATEAU OF MONGOLIA — (continued).

Reorganisation of the Party — Fresh start from Kalgan — R. C. Missions — Samdadchiemba, Huc's companion — Dishonest convert — Vigilance needed against thieves — Shara-hada Range — Suma-hada Range — The Argali; its habits and incidents of chase — Late spring — Lifeless aspects — The Urute country and Western Tumites — Tedious purchase of sheep — Dumb bargaining — Difficulties in purchase of milk — Our traffic with the Mongols — Throw off the trading character with advantage — Rude treatment from Chinese — The strong hand necessary — Difficulties about change — The Inshan mountain system — First sight of Hoang-ho — Tent flooded — Bathar Sheilun temple — The mountain antelope — Its extraordinary jumps — Chinese soldiers — Munni-ula mountains — Their flora, fauna, and avi-fauna — Legends regarding them — Ascent of the range — Chinese demand for stags' horns — Vicissitudes of mountain sport — Impressive scenery — Pass across range — Valley of the Hoang-ho — City of Bautu — Interview with commandant — Search for lodging — Mob rudeness — We are made a show of — Departure from Bautu — Passage of the Hoang-ho — Military opium smokers.

two months' journey in South-eastern Mongolia accustomed us to the style of travel, and in some measure to the conditions, under which our future wanderings would be prosecuted. The hostility shown by the population towards us on more than one occasion precluded the hope of our finding friends, and taught us to rely entirely on ourselves. The magic effect which even the name of a European produced on the cowardly natives, hopes of ultimate success, and confidence inspired by courage, these