Page:Mongolia, the Tangut country, and the solitudes of northern Tibet vol 1 (1876).djvu/160

 CHAPTER III.

THE SOUTH-EASTERN BORDER OF THE MONGOLIAN PLATEAU.

Peking — First Impressions — The Streets and Walls — European Establishments — Preparations for the Journey — Fire-arms and Outfit — Insufficiency of Funds and its Consequence — Financial Arrangements — Chinese Currency — Inconveniences of the Copper Currency — Passport — Departure from Peking — Preliminary Tour to the North — Ku-pe-kau Gate in Wall — Migration of Wild-fowl — Road to Dolon-nor — Wood on the Way — Jehol — Fauna of the Route — Goitre — Khingan Range — Dolon-nor — Idol Foundry — Shandu River — Tsagan Balgas — Sandhills called Guchin-gurbu or 'the 33' — A Steppe-fire on the Dalai-nor — The Lake Dalai — Birds on the Lake — Mocking-bird — Surveying Difficulties — Mode of Surveying — Suspicions of the Natives — The Route plotted daily — Road back to Kalgan — Steppe Horses — Imperial Pasture Lands — Climate of South-Eastern Mongolia — The two-humped Camel — Its habits, uses, &c. — Arrival at Kalgan.

or, as the Chinese call, it, Peh-king, was the starting point of our expedition. Here we met with the most cordial hospitality from our countrymen, the members of the diplomatic and clerical missions, and here we abode nearly two months making preparations for the journey. My acquaintance with the city is very superficial. Its great extent and outlandish appearance to European eyes, the strange manners of the Chinese, and, lastly, ignorance of the language, prevented me from acquainting myself in detail with all its marvels. I may candidly