Page:Mongolia, the Tangut country, and the solitudes of northern Tibet vol 1 (1876).djvu/100

34 of savage grandeur, are the chief characteristics of the mountains, along the axis of which is carried the Great Wall. Like many other ranges of Inner Asia, which have a lofty plateau on one side and low plains on the other, this presents no ascent from the side of the plateau. To the very last the traveller makes his way through undulating hills, until a marvellous panorama is suddenly disclosed to his view. Beneath his feet are rows upon rows of lofty mountains, precipices, chasms, and ravines, intermingled in the wildest confusion; beyond lie thickly populated valleys, through which glide winding rivers. The contrast between that which has been passed and that which lies before is wonderful. The change of climate is not less remarkable. Hitherto, during the whole of our march, frosts were of daily occurrence, sometimes exceeding —34° Fahr., and always accompanied by strong north-west winds without snow. Now, as we descended, the temperature grew warmer at every step, and on arriving at Kalgan the weather was spring-like, although it was yet early in January; so marked was the change in a distance of about seventeen miles, separating this town from the commencement of the descent. The high land has a height of some 5,400 feet, whereas the town of Kalgan, at the entrance to the plains, is only 2,800 feet above the level of the sea.

This town, called by the Chinese Chang-kia-kau, commands the pass through the Great Wall,