Page:Mexico in 1827 Vol 2.djvu/636

616 North of the Hacienda. It was hardly possible for such an accident to be more ill-timed, for there is not a room in the house with a whole door; and yet, in addition to chance passengers, they are tenanted by myriads of habitual occupants, who resist most strenuously every encroachment upon their territory. Fortunately, the country about is rather pretty, for there is a stream below the house, with some trees, and a little cultivation: there are likewise some hot springs, very inviting as a bath, but usually occupied by a succession of Indian women, two or three of whom may be found at almost any hour of the day sitting up to their necks in water, and very much amused at the mauvaise honte of the strangers, who have any scruples about joining so sociable a party.

I reached Fresnillo at three o'clock, having left Sombrerete at six. The distance is not less than seventy or seventy-five miles; but sterility is the decided characteristic of the whole intervening space. There are some extensive fields of maize, however, about San Juan de los Troges, (between Pancho Malo and Atotonilco,) and in the vicinity of Rancho Grande, where Mrs. Ward was magnificently lodged in the Hacienda of the principal proprietor; but those who are fortunate enough to have it in their power to pass over this tract of country as expeditiously as I did, should not stay to examine its beauties in detail. Upon Mr. Martin its gloomy appearance had such an effect, that he often declared that he was indebted to "Vivian Grey," the first part