Page:Mexico in 1827 Vol 2.djvu/202

188 level of the sea is very trifling, but in the six leagues which intervene between it and the Encerro, the height of 3,043 feet is attained, which is sufficient to give an entirely new character to the climate and productions. The air becomes considerably rarefied; the fruits and flowers of the Tierra Caliente disappear; and the Mimosas are replaced by the Mexican Oak; which, in the summer season, must be a welcome sight, as it is supposed to indicate to the traveller his arrival in those more healthy regions, where, if he has not brought infection with him, he has no longer any danger from the Vomito to apprehend. With the exception of this change, for which Humboldt's work had prepared us, we met with little worthy of remark on the road to the Ĕncērrō, where we stopped to breakfast, and to allow time for our carriages to come up. We found great reason to rejoice at not having been tempted to select it for our quarters on the preceding night, as the house was small, and incommodious, combining all the disagreeable smells peculiar to a Spanish-American shop, of which Tăsājŏ (dried beef,) and garlic are usually the most agreeable, with a great appearance of dirt, which we should have been unable to avoid by sleeping in the open air, as the change of climate was already sufficient to render the shelter of a roof indispensable. As some compensation, the distant view of Ŏrĭzāvă and Pĕrōtĕ, from the door of the inn, was very fine, as was that over the vast