Page:Mexico as it was and as it is.djvu/275

218 where there are warm baths, and the remains of some ancient sculpture of no great significance.

On attaining the lake itself, the view was exceedingly beautiful. The expanse is a clear and noble sheet, reflecting on its calm bosom every hill and mountain of the valley, while to the north (where it unites with San Cristoval) the lakes and horizon are blended. Yet it is singular, that, sounding in the deepest central part of the lake, we obtained but two feet and a half of water! The boatmen poled the entire distance of twelve miles, and on every side we saw fishermen wading along in the lake, pushing their boats as they loaded them with fish, or gathered the "flies' eggs" from the tall weeds and flags, that are planted in long rows as nests for the insects. These eggs (called agayacatl) were a favorite food of the Indians long before the conquest, and, when baked in patés, are not unlike the roe of fishes, both in flavor and appearance. After frogs in France, and "bird nests" in China, I think they may be esteemed quite a delicacy, and I find that they are not despised even at fashionable tables in the Capital.

Father Gage, at page 111 of his Travels, says that "at one season of the year, the Indians had nets of mail, with the which they raked off a certain dust that is bred on the water of the lake of Mexico, and is kneaded together like unto oas of the sea. They gathered much of the and kept it in heaps, and made thereof cakes like unto brick-bats. And they did not only sell this ware in the market, but also sent it abroad to other fairs and markets afar off; and they did eat this meal, with as good a stomach as we eat cheese; yea, and they hold the opinion, that this scum of fatness of the water is the cause that such great number of fowl cometh to the lake, which in the winter season is infinite."

This was written early in the seventeenth century, and "infinite" still continues to be the number of wild fowl with which these lakes and the neighboring marshes are covered during the winter. I have elsewhere said, that the plains and the waters seem actually peppered with them.

There can of course be but little skill in sporting among such clouds of birds, and the consequence is that they are slain for the market, by persons who rent the best situated shooting-grounds from the proprietors of the