Page:Memoirs of Baron Hyde de Neuville; outlaw, exile, ambassador; (IA memoirsofbaronhy01hyde).pdf/249

Rh their greatest power in Europe. Manners, civilisation, literature, had almost stood still, and beneath a grave and dignified exterior, was concealed a very general incapacity.

The education of the women was more than neglected. Their toilet, their guitar—to which they were faithful, as to all old-world customs—their drives, in antiquated coaches, from which they never alighted, such were the sole occupations of the pretty señoras, who naturally were dull, and inclined to seek refuge in diversions less hedged around by prejudices. Nothing can be imagined more attractive than these beautiful Spanish women, from the simple Catalan to the rich señora, whom it was sometimes difficult to distinguish the one from the other, under the national costume worn by all classes,—the mantilla which so greatly enhances beauty, and the basguine, a short tight skirt, showing the prettiest of feet.

Even amusements, bore the stamp of the general strictness. Tertulias, or evening receptions, were few in number. We went, in great state, to the house where the assembly was to be held. The ladies were received, by the hostess, in one drawing-room, and the gentlemen, by the host, in another; for, at least, an hour we went on saying: ‘How do you do,’ politeness requiring that each guest, on his arrival, should take the hand of everybody in the room, and enquire individually after each member of his family. Then the rafreisio, consisting of chocolate and cakes, was brought in; only after this repast was over, did the two circles unite, with renewed salutations and ceremonies. It is easy to understand, that such customs would lead to a reaction in the form of balcony intrigues, to which the Spanish ladies are much given.

While at Barcelona, we made an excursion to the renowned Abbey of Mont-Serrat, situated in the midst of almost inaccessible rocks. It takes seven hours to get there, along a narrow path, between abysses of frighful