Page:Memoir of a tour to northern Mexico.djvu/77

Rh of the American army has performed in the present war. From the height of the bishop’s palace a beautiful view is enjoyed over Monterey, lying about one mile east of it, over the black fort a little to the north, and over the whole wide plain which spreads out northeast of Monterey. The city looks to great advantage from here; the many gardens in the suburbs give it a lively appearance, and the more compact centre forms a fine contrast with this green enclosure. Riding through along suburbs, we arrived at last on the Plaza, where the Mexican troops had been pressed together before they capitulated. Many houses in the streets, principally on the corners, yet showed the marks of connon and grape shot. A great many of the Mexicans must have left the city: it seemed, at present, to contain more Americans than Mexicans. Most of the stores, at least, belonged to Americans. The population of Monterey, in peace, is estimated at from 15 to 20,000. Many of the houses are built of limestone, instead of adobes; in the suburbs they are generally covered with stonestraw [sic]. The climate of Monterey is very mild. With an elevation of but 1,626 feet above the sea, it is protected on three sides by the mountain chain of the Sierra Madre, whose eastern ramification ends here rather abruptly; and towards the east, where the country is hilly but not mountainous, it lies open to the breeze of the gulf. Oranges and other southern fruits grow here in the open air. In one of the gardens I saw, too, a very tall and high palm tree. The country around Monterey is generally very fertile.

Our regiment marched that day four miles beyond Monterey, to General Taylor’s camp, on the Walnut Springs. In riding there, I passed by the “black fort,” a strong fort in the plain, northeast from the city, commanding the main road and a great part of the city. The fort had been repaired by the Americans, and most of the conquered cannon found a place in it.

When I came to camp, a crowd of officers and men was collected about a simply dressed and plain looking individual, covered with a straw hat, that could not belong to any other person than to the “old Ranchero” himself, as the Mexicans used to call him–to the hero of Palo Alto, Monterey, and Buena Vista. When introduced to him, I found him as plain and easy in his conversation as in his appearance; and he was so kind as to give us some interesting details in relation to the battle of Monterey. General Taylor seems to be very partial to his camping ground, on the Walnut Springs; and the fresh spring water and fine timber are sufficient reasons for it.

On May 27, about noon, we left General Taylor’s camp for Marin, (20 miles.) We marched through a wide plain, the mountains changing into hills. Chaparrál of course covers the ground, but the soil seems to be richer and more fertile than heretofore. We passed several ranchos and villages on the road, as San Domingo, San Francisco, Agua Fria, which were inhabited, and others that had been destroyed by the American troops. Marin is a small town, on an eminence near the Rio Meteros, which seems to be the northern headwater of the San Juan.

On May 28, we marched 33 miles, to Carrizitos. The country was hilly, and all around us thick chaparrál; but the chaparráls in the lower country, from Monterey to the sea-shore, are rather different from those on the high plains and mountainous parts of Mexico. Although sundry species of mezquite prevail in both of them, other shrubs disappear here entirely, or diminish at least, while new shrubbery and small trees take their place. So, for instance, disappears here the Fouquiera