Page:Memoir of a tour to northern Mexico.djvu/60

[ 26 ] leagues southwest of it, on an elevation commanding a wide view. Along the creeks Casas Grandes and Janos a long line of Indian mounds extends, in some of which earthen vessels, painted white, blue, and violet, have been found; also weapons, and instruments of stone, but none of iron. The same artificial construction of houses is yet found amongst the Moqui Indians, northwest of the State of Chihuahua. But an old tradition reports that the Aztecs, in their migration from the north to the south of Mexico, made three principal stations–the first on the lake de Teguyo, (great Salt lake?) the second on the Gila, and the third at Casas Grandes. The ruins of Casas Grandes are only distant about four days' travel from Cosihuiriachi, and I felt very anxious to examine them; but as the government of Chihuahua, following the precedent of Dr. Francia, in Paraguay, considered a scientific exploration of the country as endangering the welfare of the republic, I had to forego the pleasure, and to confine myself to the reports given to me in relation to it.

Finally, let us look into the capital, the largest and finest city of the State. Chihuahua was settled about 1691. The number of its inhabitants is said to have been much greater about the middle of the last century than now; at present it is estimated at from 12 to 15,000. Chihuahua has a most beautiful situation in a valley, open towards the north, and surrounded on the other sides by the projecting mountains of the Sierra Madre. The city is regularly built; has wide and clean streets–in some of them quite handsome and convenient houses; plenty of water from the Chihuahua creek, and from an aqueduct; fine gardens around the town, and a delightful public walk, (Alameda,) shaded with cotton trees. The finest place of the city, as usual in Mexico, is the Plaza, or public square. It is very spacious; has a public fountain in the middle, and foot walks on the side, with benches and pillars of a white porphyry, which is found in the neighborhood. Three sides of the square are occupied with public buildings and stores; on the fourth stands the cathedral, a very imposing building, which I have mentioned already in connexion with the mines of Santa Eulalia. Although the style of the building is not throughout Gothic, it shows nevertheless great finish and elegance of construction; the two equal and parallel steeples in front of it are elevated 52 varas above the Plaza. Another expensive work of architecture, erected in Spanish times, is the aqueduct, built of rocks, with arches; it extends 6,533 varas, and provides the southern part of the city with water, while on the north side the Chihuahua creek runs, which unites below with the "Nombre de Dios," and falls into the Conchos. Another remarkable building in town is the church of San Felipe, commenced by the Jesuits, and left unfinished after their expulsion. In this building the patriotic Hidalgo and his associates were confined before their execution; also the Texan officers of the ill-fated Santa Fe expedition, on their march to the south; and in more recent times it was converted into a foundry, at which were cast the cannon taken by Colonel Doniphan's regiment at the battle of Sacramento, and since transported to the distant capital of Missouri. In the interior of the building the Americans had their hospital established, during their occupation of Chihuahua. Near the old church, on a public square, stands a simple monument, in honor of Hidalgo, Allende, and Jimenez, the revolutionary heroes that were shot here by the Spaniards.