Page:Lisbon and Cintra, Inchbold, 1907.djvu/85

Rh and chairs. Involuntarily the mind wanders to the physiognomy of Lisboa Antiga, its narrow, steep streets, and these enormous coaches. An edict of 1680 regulated their movement, for in the meeting of two coaches, each filling the narrow space neither would yield to the other, the servants on both sides would draw their swords and fight for the right of way. D. Pedro II ordered in this edict that, however important the noble owner of the coach, the one ascending the street was to be the coach to retreat in favour of the other, and to enforce the practice of the law severe penalties followed any transgression.

High above this suburb of Belem stands the Palace of the Ajuda, its lengthy façade, extended array of windows, square towers faced with marble at the angles of the buildings, and elevated site, making it the most conspicuous edifice which is seen on coming into port. A steep calçada leads up to it from the Praça de D. Fernando. The road lined with trees conducting to the open space fronting the palace does not prepare one for the neglected-looking surroundings of this royal palace. After seeing so many beautiful garden squares in Lisbon this deserted, untended ground with its meagre, stunted trees, the cluster of mean cottages, almost hovels, on its border, the mills in ruins to one side, take one by surprise, and one questions, why?

Ajuda Palace was built by D. João VI on the site of the wooden building put up hurriedly to shelter the royal family after the earthquake. One wing of the vast original design is still unfinished. Though deserted for many years after the reign of D. Miguel it became the favourite residence of the late King, D. Luiz, and owing to his expressed wish, it is stated, the Queen Dowager, D. Maria Pia, lives in it, as a rule, during the winter months. Visitors holding special cards of admission are shown the 59