Page:Ling-Nam; or, Interior views of southern China, including explorations in the hitherto untraversed island of Hainan (IA cu31924023225307).pdf/95

 Teng-o0 and the Marble Caves. gt

erew on each boat of this size consists of eight men, one of whom holds the rudder, a clumsy wooden affair with a blade about ten feet long. Another holds the great steering oar on the bow, while the others row, pole, or track the boat, as occasion requires. On either side of the beat are foot-walks about a foot wide, with cross strips fastened with bamboo thongs eight or teu inches apart. The use of these foot-walks and cross strips becomes apparent when we encounter a strong current, and the men have to push the boat forward with their bamboo poles, bending down to the work, setting their fect against the cross strips, and uttering, meanwhile, the most harrowing cries. The peculiar cries of these boat- men are most startling as they rush along the boards, which, loosely fastened, clatter under their feet, screaming as though in intensest agony “ Ay-ly-chy-ly a-a-a-h-h.” They claim that such vocal exercise greatly assists them in their work, aud tell of a certain man who exacted a promise from his crew to abstain from such noises. They kept their promise, but were so used up at the end of the voyage that they vowed never to be inveigled into such rash promises again.

All who travel to the west and north from Canton must, pass through Fat-shaéu, and follow the Pearl River to Sam-shui. For several miles below the latter place the river is very broad, and when filled with boats under sail presents an attractive sight. On one occasion we had toiled against tide, and wind, and current, passing many boats, whose crews, exhausted, had tied up to wait for a change of wind, when just as we reached this open stretch a good strong breeze from the east sprang up. Besides