Page:Ling-Nam; or, Interior views of southern China, including explorations in the hitherto untraversed island of Hainan (IA cu31924023225307).pdf/209

 lt the Headwaters. 205

eastern entrance of this plain is a large hill—conical as seen in one direction, and pyramidal as looked at from another—obstructing the way, so that the little stream flows on one side and the footpath encircles its base on the other. Qn the eastern slope, which was covered with grass, were herds of small cattle feeding. Po-on, two miles from the river, is a walled town, an important. market centre, with several bridges across the small streams that unite in front of it. One of these bridges is a wooden structure composed of thin boards loosely laid on bamboo poles, tied down in places by bamboo thongs, which make an incessant rattle as people pass over it. The bridge was purposely so constructed, on the supposition that this peculiar rattling noise is most. pleasing to the spirits of the stream. If spirits have ears, and delhght in such noises, they must enjoy a rare treat on market days, when thousands of hurrying feet keep up an incessant racket and din most irritating to the nerves of ordinary mortals.

The chief attraction at Po-on is the Fuk-shan grove and monastery about half a mile north of the town. It is one of the most attractive spots to be found in the whole country, situated, as it is, in a small ravine, and surrounded by thick woods about two hundred acres in extent. Oak, camphor, chestnut, holly, and other trees eover the sides of the valley, some of them growing to immense size, making it deliciously cool. The trees and shrubs are festooned with hanging moss, falling in jong streamers that sway in the breeze, often striking against the face as we walk along. The change of the atmosphere is felt immediately on entering the shaded