Page:Ling-Nam; or, Interior views of southern China, including explorations in the hitherto untraversed island of Hainan (IA cu31924023225307).pdf/119

 The Bamboo River. 115

small pass ealled Tai-hap. The hills on either side come down to the water’s edge, projecting in rocky points into the stream. A temple on the bank is visited by the boatmen, and offerings made to secure a safe passage. Above this pass the river winds through thick groves, and on one of its many bends is found the little market town of Ow-tsai, the first we reach in Kwong-si province. Perched on the high bank at the mouth of a small ravine, it is the dirtiest little place along the whole river. Glad to escape from its dark, narrow, miry streets, we return to the boat and sail up the stream. The hills become higher, and show in many places a thick young growth of chestnut, oak, and similar trees. A stream, almost as large as the main one, comes in on the right as we ascend. It flows down from a market region past the market town of Kaék-shui, and shows a near way to the town on the upper Lien-chow stream.

As we approach the town of Wai-tsap the hills recede, the bamboos disappear to a great extent, and ordinary fields are seen, while the stream becomes more rapid. The town is rather an insignificant one; much of the space inside the walls is unoccupied, and the public buildings are in a dilapidated condition. A pagoda on the opposite bank, and one some distance down the stream, are important objects in the landscape. A square tower to the east of the city is the most attractive feature jn the scene. Half in ruins, it is almost wholly covered by a Inxuriant creeper, a species of clematis, which hangs in graceful folds over the crumbling walls, with masses of white flowers gleaming on all sides. Wai-tsap is at the head of navigation for ordinary boats, small craft