Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. II.djvu/399

Rh miracle that we hastened to Naples on the 18th of September.

After having observed the working of the miracle three times, I will give an account of the occasion when we saw it most favorable. Already at 8 o'clock we went to the church. The miracle, never takes place before 9 o'clock, but how soon, or how long after the stroke of that hour, depends upon the favor or disfavor of San Gennaro towards his Neapolitan countrymen and countrywomen, because his cousins or descendants, in the female line, to the hundredth or thousandth degree, have no inconsiderable part to play therein. The chapel in the cathedral was already, on our arrival, full of people, but a kind priest who recognized us as foreigners, conducted us within the balustrades round the altar, to which we were able to place ourselves as near as we wished. Several foreigners in the mean time had similar places assigned to them. Many Neapolitan ladies and some gentlemen were kneeling on the flight of steps which led to the choir. The crowd of the populace stood outside, in the spacious, rotunda-like chapel, whilst an especial place by the altar was assigned to a throng of old, simply-attired women, considerably more like witches than madonnas. These called themselves the relations of San Gennaro, and were not allowed to eat any thing in the morning before the miracle was in operation, from which cause their prayers became all the more energetic and effectual.

A number of silver statues filled the chapel which is said to be immensely rich. The heat was very great as we waited there in silence the arrival of San Gennaro.