Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. II.djvu/376

386 the first calm sail I have yet had on the Bay of Naples! The most glorious morning air, glittering waves, bright as diamonds, trembling, water-spouting dolphins, and the gay rowers altogether, rendered the sail quite festal. We went direct to the Grotto Azura. Little fishing boats came immediately from the shore of Capri, to meet us there. The sea was now so tranquil, that we could, without any difficulty, enter the grotto in one of these boats; but the water, however, was so high, and the arch so low, that we were obliged to lie down in the bottom of the boat. The incomparable spectacle of the grotto filled with blue air and brightness—a reflection of the sea and of the sky, shining in through the opening—together with its extraordinary property of giving color to the human body, which was proved to us by an old swimmer who for a small payment, threw himself into the water and swam about; we had a good opportunity of observing during the hour which we spent, sitting on one of the rock-seats in the Grotto.

After being thus pleasantly amused, and a little provoked by the rapacity of the fisher-folk, we rowed to the landing-place, where we had a fight with some asses and their drivers, who placed themselves in our road in order to compel us to accept their service. We obtained rooms in the Hotel Pugani, and refreshed ourselves to our hearts' content. Genuine Capri wine, and a real omelette soufflée, were the crown of our excellent little dinner. A palm-tree growing by our little hotel, and the number of cactus plants on the island, give it a tropical character. We went in the afternoon to the ruins of the Villa of Tiberius, which