Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. II.djvu/329

Rh unexpected excursions and relationships are not its least refreshing parts. Thus, at the present time, I have, quite unpremeditated by myself, settled down in this island with some friends—of whom more has yet to be said.

I set out on my journey to Pozzuoli and Baja, in company with the young widow, Mrs. M., the Englishman Mr. N., and my countryman Mr. S. How glorious we found the ruins of the temple of Jupiter Serapis; how the frogs swarmed round Lago d'Agnano; how we saw a dog condemned and die in the Grotta del Cane, and afterward come to life again; how at Cuma we visited the cave where the Sibyl is said to have dwelt; how we stood on the ruins of the school of Virgil and the Villa of Lucullus, amongst the walls of which grew large plants of anise, like ghosts of the ancient kitchen-garden; how Solfatara boiled and poured out its sulphur-fumes, which seemed to make it a very worthy representation of the descent into hell, as the poets had stated; how much we saw which was remarkable in the ruins, and how much that was beautiful in nature and in the views; how we were incessantly tormented, partly by beggars, partly by the offer for sale of antique articles, small lamps, sibyls, &c.; how we were tempted and how we bought, with our piastres, manufactured articles which were not worth so many carlini; how we fought and grumbled the whole way against the modern population of Pozzuoli's shameless extortions; how by this means were destroyed the quietness and a great deal of the enjoyment of our journey I will merely mention here in the most summary manner.