Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. II.djvu/312

322 Casino—is advisable for such as love to see picturesque, wild mountain scenery, with views over fertile stretches of valley, and to make acquaintance with dirty little towns half overspread with cobwebs, but where the peculiar physiognomy and dress of the people, sometimes literally of rags, the dirt, and the half-naked, mendicant children who exclaim with expressive gestures “''Morto di fame! morto di fame!''” But all ought to be warned from this route who make a great point of good hotels and good living. The weather besides, was stormy and cold in the mountain district, and we enjoyed but few sunbeams. We had them however, in the valleys of Sacco and Liri, embosomed in the wooded heights of the Abruzzi, above which large wandering clouds cast their shadows, and a troop of women, like caryatides, came along with large water vessels on their heads from the fountain near the little town where we dined. Another such gleam of sunshine had we as we clambered up Monte Casino, and it was needed, for it was cold and the convent lies very high.

The convent and church are as magnificent as palaces, brilliant with marbles and precious ornaments; statues and busts adorn the courts and passages. The worthy fathers of the convent all, with the exception of three, go to sleep at noon, and the whole establishment seems to bear them company. The convent seemed deserted. On my inquiry, however, for Padre Tosti, he immediately made his appearance, a little man, with handsome, dark eyes, finely cut countenance, refined manners, and an expression which seemed to say that he had learned that it was not necessary to